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The Knitty-gritty

Autumn is here, winter is near, and you’ll need a sweater or two or perhaps three. Before buying the next one, read this post so you won’t need to sweat the small stuff.

My Cozy Sweaters

A Sweater is a Jersey is a Jumper

Got that? So, where did these names come from? The Encyclopedia Britannica defines a sweater as a knitted or crocheted outer garment that can be pulled over the head or buttoned down the front or back that covers the torso. The knitting of wool sweaters began 2,000 years ago. In the 15th century, the wives of fishermen and sailors from the English Channel Islands–Guernsey and Jersey– knitted natural wool garments to keep the seamen warm from the cold wind and water. These woolen garments became popular as an export item throughout Europe for workingmen. Since then, these knitted woolen garments have become known as jerseys. But why is it called sweater? In the 1890s, the name sweater was coined when American athletes wore these thick knitted tops before and after athletic contests and workouts to protect themselves from the cold. And where did the term jumper come from? In the 1800s, European male artists and workmen traditionally wore a jump, a loose and thick knitted or crocheted garment; ergo, the Brits referred to this smock as a jumper.  

From Practical to Fashionable to Political to Wardrobe Essential

Sweaters were perceived as practical and durable from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. The British Royal Navy adopted the Guernsey as part of the mariner’s uniform, and sweaters were part of the athletic wear. But things changed in the 1920s when haute couture iconic designers like Jeanne Lanvin, Coco Chanel, and Elsa Schiaparelli in Paris started to add cardigan sweaters to their collections. In the 1940s, women began to reject prescribed gender norms; thus, the feminist history of the cardigan began. Female college students at Smith, Wellesley, and Vassar protested wearing girdles and tight-fitting clothes because wearing such symbolized conforming to restrictive social systems. Instead, they started sporting a loose-fitting button-up sweater known as the Sloppy Joe, which was long to cover the hips. The Sloppy Joe look was inspired by the comfortable and sloppy outfits the male Ivy League students took pride in wearing. Before long, the sweater became a part of everyday wear. Fast forward to 2022, sweaters are a wardrobe staple, and as you can imagine, there are many types, designs, and fabrics to choose from. This post will give you information and tips to shop smarter.

Materials

The sweater’s material affects the garment’s price, feel, weight, and comfort. Basically, sweaters are made from natural or synthetic fibers.

Natural Fibers

Sheep

The thick fishermen sweaters were made from sheep’s wool with the natural lanolin left in the yarn to repel water and dirt. While there are benefits to lanolin, like water and dirt repellant, there are also drawbacks. For example, lanolin may impart a smell. In addition, some people may react to a specific component of the lanolin in the wool that causes skin irritation, runny noses, and watery eyes.

Cashmere Goat

Another popular source of wool is the cashmere goat. The yarn is luxuriously fine and soft from the goat’s undercoat, which equates to high prices. However, even the softest cashmere can cause irritation to dry skin.

Alpaca

Wool from the alpaca is luxuriously soft and five times warmer and stronger but lighter than sheep’s wool. In addition, the alpaca fiber is touted as the most hypoallergenic wool because it contains little to no lanolin. Yet, it is also water resistant because it has a low water retention rate. Given all these qualities, alpaca wool has a hefty price tag.

Vicuna

Alpaca may be expensive, but vicuna wool is the most expensive in the world because it is the finest and rarest. The vicuna lives in the very high and cold Andes Mountain Ranges. It is on the endangered species list, and the Peruvian government limits how much vicuna wool can be collected yearly. Vicuna wool is one of the finest natural fibers in the world, making it highly soft and warm. The wool fibers interlock to trap air and heat for excellent insulation from the cold. It is also hypoallergenic. The downside of the bougie vicuna wool is its royal price.

Angora Rabbit

Angora wool is gathered by farmers when the rabbits molt three or four times per year. The fibers are light, thin, and soft. Because the fiber is stiff, the angora wool is usually mixed with alpaca or sheep’s wool to add elasticity and bulk to the yarn thread. Angora wool is very insulating due to its hollow fibers, and its fluffy halo effect looks luxurious and beautiful. However, the fibers of knitted garments have shedding issues which may be a result of low yarn twists to maximize the softness of the garments. 

Angora Goat

The mohair used for clothing comes from the thinner fibers of the young angora goat. Mohair is another luxurious soft wool that has a luster and sheen. Often, it is blended with alpaca, merino, or silk fibers because mohair is very fine and needs bulk. The fluffy soft mohair is often used to make fake fur garments. However, there have been complaints that the long fibers can be scratchy.

Silkworms

Silk comes from the cocoons of the silkworm. When knitting sweaters, silk is often mixed with other fibers such as alpaca, wool, mohair, and cotton to give the garment more elasticity and bounce. The advantage of silk fiber is that it is not likely to pill, does not stretch very much, provides good insulation, and absorbs moisture. However, silk is expensive because collecting silk fibers is very laborious.

Cotton

Cotton sweaters are fantastic because they are affordable, the fiber breathes, and easy to wash and maintain. However, cotton is not warm for cold regions with harsh winters. A cotton and wool blend can be a good solution for breathability and added warmth. 

Synthetic Fibers

Acrylic

Acrylic is a man-made material often referred to as artificial wool. Acrylic has more elasticity, better warmth retention, and higher strength than wool. The downside to acrylic fiber is that the short fibers are prone to easy pilling and moisture absorption is relatively poor. 

Polyester

Polyester is a synthetic fiber derived from petroleum that is popular because of its low cost in production. However, with today’s technological advances and increased environmental considerations, plant-based biodegradable polyester is now available. The downside is this version is more expensive. Polyester is often blended with natural fibers such as cotton or wool for sweater production. Adding polyester to these natural fabrics makes the garment more durable, shrinks less, retains shape, and is easy to wash.

Rayon (Viscose, Modal, Lyocell)

Viscose

Viscose rayon is a semi-synthetic material made from wood chips derived from the following sources: beech, pine, spruce, hemlock, eucalyptus, bamboo, soy, and sugar cane. The wood chips are dissolved in chemicals to produce wood pulp. The wood pulp is further processed and regenerated to make viscose. Viscose is an affordable alternative to silk. The advantages and disadvantages of viscose can influence your decision for your next sweater purchase. 

Modal

Modal rayon was developed in 1951 in Japan using the same processing as viscose using birch and oak wood chips. However, modal production is more uncomplicated than viscose. Therefore, it does not produce as much waste, making it more expensive. The Tencel modal is considered the most environmentally friendly in processing. It is noteworthy that people who may be allergic to birch and oak should avoid modal fabrics. However, modal fibers mixed with wool, cotton, or silk make a sweater highly resistant to pilling. Modal is also easy to wash and maintain, and the shrinkage factor is negligible. 

Lyocell

Lyocell rayon was developed to substitute cotton or silk using wood pulp from mostly eucalyptus. The production process of the fiber uses a non-toxic chemical that can be reused and recycled, and they are not released into the environment. The advantages of using this fiber are its softness, breathability, and moisture absorption better than cotton. Also, it does not absorb smell as quickly as other fabrics, so less frequent washing is needed. However, Lyocell is expensive because of the unique technology involved in manufacturing it. Garment manufacturers blend Lyocell with cotton, silk, and wool to create soft, stretchy, wash-and-wear, and long-lasting garments. 

Polyamide

Polyamide, commonly known as nylon, is another synthetic fiber made from petroleum and used in sweater blends like cotton, polyester, wool, or acrylic to give the garment elasticity and silkiness. The downside is that the production process is damaging to the environment. 

GFL Tips

I realize everyone has different tastes in styles and materials, budgets, body heat regulation requirements, personal values, etc. Still, common amongst us is that we all want the best bang for the buck. So, consider the following tips before your next sweater purchase– in person or online.  

1. Read the fabric content. When buying wool, look for the Woolmark label to ensure that the wool is produced using the highest quality standards. Natural fibers are usually more expensive than synthetic ones. The fabric composition can justify the price of the garment.

2. When buying in person, do…

  • pay attention to the weave of the garment. Put your hand underneath the fabric, and if you see your hand through the weave, then this is likelier to tear after a few wears. A sweater with tightly spun yarn and a tight weave will last long.
  • check the garment’s resistance to stretch. Gently pull the fabric, and if it comes back into place, it will hold its shape with many washes and wears. This test tells you that the material is durable and has longevity.
  • turn the garment inside out to check that the seams are tightly bound and sewn straight. You would not want the sweater to fall apart after a few wash cycles and wears.
  • inspect the buttons are securely sewn. Replacing lost buttons on a new sweater is frustrating.
  • try out the zipper and check that it does not catch the fabric. 
  • feel the material against your skin. After all, clothing is your second skin, and you should be comfortable wearing it all day. Long coarse fibers are scratchy; people with sensitive skin should try the garment before buying.

3. When buying online, do…

  • zoom in to check the details like the yarn, weave, seams, buttons, and zipper. 
  • read the description, which tells you what it’s made of with the exact percentage of material, the size guidelines, and keywords such as “cozy,” “chunky,” “soft,” “tactile,” etc.
  • read customer reviews if available.

4. Be aware that all knits will pill at some point depending on the fiber, the construction of the yarn, the personal habits of the wearer, and the laundering of the garment in high temperatures. Pilling (formation of tiny balls) is more likely to occur when the fibers are fine and short, making these easy to break or get tangled from friction. Also, pills form in areas where there is more wear and tear. Read The secrets to buying sweaters that (almost) never pill. Some of the key points are summarized below. 

  • Natural fibers like cotton and silk are less likely to pill.
  • Longer fibers with a higher twist count (denser and more durable) are less likely to break. Long fiber wools include merino, mohair, and alpaca, while high twist construction yarn can be a 4-ply cashmere.
  • Modal blends with wool, cotton, or  silk are resistant to pilling.
  • Wool-polyester blends are prone to pilling and can be very difficult to de-pill.
  • Sweaters that have three or more different natural and synthetic fibers are prone to pill.
  • Merino blend with 10% viscose and Merino blend with no more than 40% acrylic are smart options for low pilling.
  • Cross-body bags, stiff material jackets, or abrasive linings can exacerbate pilling.
  • Read the care label, and when washing, turns the fabric inside out and use cold water.
  • Invest in a battery-operated fabric de-fuzzer, pumice stone, lint tape, or brush. Read this article for detailed information. 

GFL Wrap-up: Labels to check out

Want to know the latest women’s sweater trends for Fall/Winter 2022? Read this article. The trend summary is below. 

  • Loose knits
  • Stripes
  • Preppy
  • Fisherman
  • Oversized fuzzy

The Fall/Winter 2022 style trends for men are chunky sweaters, vests, and artisanal and handmade vibes like crochet, embroidery, and graphic details. 

Below are my picks of labels for the season that reflect my sense of style. You can use it as a guide as you do you. Have fun shopping.

$ For the Budget and Sustainability Conscious

$$ For the Fashion Forward and Sustainability Conscious

$$$+ – For those who want to “$$$plurge” and Sustainability Conscious

Image Source: This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY

Save $$$ & Be Environmentally Friendly

Ever considered thrift shopping? This can save you mega bucks and do your part in ensuring environmental sustainability, too. Here are three online shops to check out.

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